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I purchased a beautiful Christmas cactus so full of blooms and I need to learn how to take care of this plant.
A. We think of Christmas cactus as a heat loving plant, but actually your blooms will last much longer if your plant is in a well lit location, free of drafts from heat registers, fireplaces or other hot air. Hot air causes the flower buds to drop off before they have a chance to open. Water thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. The plants will wilt under drought stress. You do not need to fertilize while the plant is blooming.
After bloom time you can prune the plant back which will cause it to branch out more. Remove a few sections of each stem by pinching them off with your fingers or cutting with a sharp knife. You could root these cuttings in moist vermiculite to propagate new plants.
Once summer comes you can move this plant outside, but keep it in a shady or semi-shady location. The leaves will burn in direct sunlight. Be sure to bring it in before any chance of frost.
The most asked question about Christmas cactus is how to get them to bloom again. This takes some effort. About October they need to have long uninterrupted dark periods, about 12 hours each night, in order to have blooms for the holidays. Place the plant in a closet from about eight each night to about eight each morning. Another successful way that takes less labor is to subject your plant to temperatures about 50-55 degrees from about November to Christmas. This plant takes some effort but is worth it for that beautiful color so welcomed during our long winter.
We bought a live Christmas tree and now what do we do? The ground seems frozen. Is it impossible to plant now?
We try to encourage those anticipating buying a live Christmas tree, to dig a planting hole in advance and cover the soil so that it doesn't freeze, but even if you haven't already dug your hole, you can still save that tree. We hope you have moved it from your warm house to your garage/shed where it can get used to the colder weather. Also you will need to make sure it is kept moist.
Do some research to see how big your tree will be at maturity, so that you can choose an appropriate planting site and eliminate problems that a big tree might cause later on. Once the weather warms up a bit, start digging. The soil may only be frozen for a few inches. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, remove any strings or burlap, straighten out any roots that seem bound up, and place in the hole. Make sure that your depth is correct so that your soil line will be the same as it has been in the pot. Cover with soil and water well. Place mulch around the planting to help hold the moisture.
I am thinking of raising some rabbits in the garden area for many reasons, one being the fertilizer they produce. What do you think? Is their manure good for the garden?
Rabbit manure is a good source of nitrogen for your garden and breaks down quickly. Two rabbits will give you a good pile to spread on your garden in the fall. (Two rabbits could also give you many more little rabbits) The winter rains and snow will soak those nutrients into the soil while your garden plants are dormant. You could also add the droppings to your compost pile or put some in a bucket and fill with water and brew up some manure tea to pour on your plants.
Rabbits do need shelter and the proper food and water so research their needs before you begin. Be aware that rabbits running loose will eat many of your garden plants, so you need to contain them. Many gardeners build attractive hutches to use as part of their 'garden art' and some like to refer to their rabbits as the garden pet.
I grew some large beautiful potatoes this summer and now when I use them I see many of them have brown hollow portions in the center of the potato. What causes this? Is it a disease?
It is not a disease, but a physiological disorder caused by rapid tissue growth. It is more serious during wet, cool weather and some varieties may be more prone to it. Hollow heart tubers are edible. Simply cut out that portion.
I want to grow food for my family this year, and would also love to have some beautiful flowers, but I am a true amateur and would like some basic information. Can you give me some helpful tips in just a few paragraphs?
We love to help new gardeners and what better time to talk about it. We are usually setting down our New Year's Resolutions now and we can suggest these tips and call them your Garden Resolutions for the year.
I am making out my nursery order and want to purchase a plant I saw in the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden last summer. It was located in the xeric portion and was rather tall and had pink flowers. It was so fragrant and sort of smelled like candy. Can you help?
We think you are describing Agastache Bubble Gum Mint. We planted several of them last spring and they really put on a show. Originally from the southwest, they are drought tolerant, hardy, smell like bubble gum, and the hummingbirds love them.
There are many varieties and colors of Agastache, so you have many choices. Even though the word mint is mentioned in their description, they do not spread like mint, and are more of a clumping shape. Plant some in your garden, and come see ours this summer.
My hubby and I are good cooks, but lousy gardeners. We want to grow some herbs for our cooking, but wonder if this will be too difficult for us. We both have black thumbs.
A. We think you have chosen one of the easiest of plant groups to grow. And what an addition fresh herbs make to accent our recipes.
Look around and see if you have a sunny location that gets about 5-6 hours a day of sun. Ideally this should be located close to the kitchen door so you can simply step out and snip what you need for a soup or salad. The soil should be enriched with compost, so that it is well drained. You will have to decide whether you want this to look very formal or more of a cottage garden.
Write out a list of what you use the most in your cooking. Do some research to determine which of your favorite herbs are perennials, and which are annuals. As you develop your garden plan, read the description of each perennial herb, consider how big they will be at maturity and provide enough space between plants. Seed your annuals so that they will not disturb the perennials when you pull them up in the fall.
Many perennials such as oregano, chives, garlic chives, thyme, and sage are long lived and do very well here. There are many mints available to you, such as lemon, chocolate, pineapple and apple, but all are very aggressive, and should be planted in containers. Basil is an annual and loves hot weather and is intolerant of the cold. Dill is also an annual but will re-seed itself each year.
Herb gardens are beautiful to look at and can be a focal part of your garden. Begin now by reading the nursery catalogs that are available to you, or go online and keyword "herbs" both for ordering seeds and learning more about growing and cooking. Good luck.
My yard is very drab this winter and I need suggestions to improve this. Can you help?
What a good time to work on this problem. By seeing the garden during the winter months, it allows you to map out a solution for spring. Look around and see just where your garden needs help. Think about the heights you are needing, and how dense you want your plantings. It is a matter of choice just what you want for winter but many rely on conifers to supply our need for 'green', because they keep their color all year. Many have beautiful cones too, and of course they come in all colors and sizes, so do your homework.
Many trees and shrubs have interesting bark and twigs that will add textural interest. You might also look into shrubs that have a berry, roses that have big rose hips, and ornamental grasses that keep their look all thru winter. Master Gardeners can help you with specific ideas and you can call us at 574-1600. Take a look through the books at the Yakima Regional Library or get online and keyword "winter interest in the garden". Good luck.
I grew potatoes for the first time this year and was so proud, but many have knobs on them and look a bit like Mickey Mouse. They taste ok but are sure hard to peel. What causes this?
Dr. Roy Vandenburg was the coordinator of our Master Gardeners for many years and was also our teacher. We can still remember him telling us how stupid potatoes are. Potatoes like to be kept moist and when we let them dry out and then give them water, they forget where they were growing and begin in another location. So the secret here is to keep them moist. You might try using a mulch around them to help keep moisture in. There are many choices but leaves and lawn clippings work well and are available and affordable too.
I have received some of my first garden catalogs and it all seems a little like a foreign language to me. What does it mean when it says terms like compact, bush, giant, unique or vigorous?
Garden catalogs do have a lot of information and some of it will be revealed in a key that you will find at the beginning of the catalog. Get familiar with the key so that you will know if it is an heirloom, hybrid, drought tolerant and resistant to certain diseases.
The words you mention are descriptive too and simply describe how the plant grows. Giant means just that. It is much bigger than others in that same plant group. Compact or bush tells us that this plant will be much smaller and would be ideal in a little garden area. Words like vigorous should be taken serious. It might mean that it will out compete the other plants in your garden and you may have to really watch it or it will take over. Another set of words that might make you cautious is self-sowing; this means that it is going to throw seeds out and you might have this plant for the rest of your life. That might be ok in some settings but might be too much in others.
Catalogs are unique in themselves. Many will sell small packages with a few seeds at lower prices so you can try many kinds, others will offer bulk seeds at reduced prices. Still others might feature just one kind of vegetable such as tomatoes. Those teach us just how many varieties of that one vegetable there is. Nearly all of them have a page or two of new varieties for the year. These have been tested and of course it is fun to try something new.
Garden catalogs make good reading on a cold January evening, and you will find just the ones that you prefer
Should I use potting soil rather than garden soil for starting seeds indoors?
Yes, use prepared, sterilized, sacked mixes of starting media available in garden and hardware stores. You can make your own soil-less planting media using peat, fine vermiculite, and Perlite or sand -- all sterile ingredients that won't transmit pathogens to your seedlings.
Since starting mixes contain few if any nutrients, you'll need to add fertilizer as soon as the first true leaves appear. Liquid fertilizers sold for houseplants and diluted to half strength work well.
Transplant seedlings into individual containers soon after they get their second set of true leaves, or as soon as the seedlings are big enough to handle.
What to do in the garden in February…
During the cold month of February gardeners may appear calm and serene on the outside - but inside there is something rather primeval stirring. You can tell by the glint of gluttonous satisfaction in our eye when we pass the two foot high stack of garden catalogs on the kitchen counter. We betray ourselves by the stacks of little plastic nursery pots soaking in bleach water in the bathtub and by the peat pots already seeded and soaking up the rays under the grow lights. Spring is just around the corner - and we know it!
Here are a few chores to keep us busy and get us ready for spring -
* Make your garden plan for this year. Rotate crops to help preserve soil nutrients and to avoid potential disease problems. Your garden journal is a great help with this task. If you don't have a journal, start one this year.* Sharpen and oil your garden tools. Play with the new garden toys you received for Christmas.
* Organize the potting shed.
* Mist stored tubers such as dahlias, begonias and gladiolas. Discard any tubers or corms that are shriveled or moldy or that feel soft.
* If the weather's agreeable, divide perennials. Carefully lift the entire plant then divide into appropriate sized pieces. Replant new starts in other parts of the garden or share them with friends and family. Be sure and include the full name of the plant so the recipient knows what they're getting and can then determine the plant's needs and its size at maturity.
* Cut back any perennials that weren't cleaned up last fall. Remove the dead stalks before new growth begins, especially with ornamental grasses. When working in your garden, beware of stepping on emerging bulb foliage.
* If the weather warms up for a few minutes you will see flushes of weed seeds that have germinated. They look like a plush carpet of green emerging from the soil. Get rid of them now by running a gloved hand over the soil and roughing them up. There now, you just saved yourself an hour of weeding two months from now.
* Keep an eye out for any disease or fungus problems on your plants. Early identification will make treatment more effective.
* Rake up remaining leaves in the yard and add to your compost pile.
* Cut branches from spring-flowering shrubs to bring inside and force. Branches of pussy willow, forsythia, flowering quince and ornamental flowering trees all work well. Make a clean cut and place in water. In a few days, enjoy an early spring.
* If the weather cooperates, finish any winter pruning. When pruning fruit trees and grapes, cut flush with the swollen collar near the base of the branch rather than flush with the trunk. The cut will heal faster.
* Now is the time to build a cold frame. Frames are great for keeping young plants from freezing until they can survive in the garden unprotected. Old windows can work well for constructing cold frames.
* Treat your favorite gardener for Valentine's Day. Great gift ideas include: a new gardening book, a pair of new gardening gloves, a pretty pot, a subscription to a gardening magazine, a flowering house plant, or a gift certificate to a local nursery.
The leaves on my houseplants are droopy and leaves are dropping. They did so well all summer and fall. What am I doing wrong?
Winter can be very hard on houseplants. Ask yourself these questions for possible causes of your houseplant problem:
Am I watering too much? By the time winter sets in, many of our houseplants have become semi-dormant. During the winter they do not need nearly as much water as when they were actively growing.
Am I over-fertilizing? Because growth has virtually stopped, plants do not need fertilizing until they resume growing next spring.
Are my plants getting the right amount of light? Most houseplants do best with either reflected bright or subdued light rather than direct sunlight. Check the light level several times during the day to see if they are getting enough light. Placing your plants under fluorescent lights may be necessary if your plants are not receiving enough natural light.
Are my houseplants too cold or too warm? Drafts from doorways can be enough to shock them. Plants placed on windowsills could be the problem if some of the leaves are touching the cold windowpanes. Heat from nearby vents could also be the source of your problem.
Is the humidity of my home too low? Humidity in the typical home is too dry during the winter for the health of houseplants -- and for us. Furnace humidifiers are ideal. Even a small humidifier used for treating respiratory problems can be used to raise the humidity around plants grouped closely together. Setting our houseplants on saucers filled with gravel and water will raise the humidity, but be sure the bottom of the pot is not in direct contact with the water. Misting is another solution that is sometimes recommended. Unless you are vigilant and mist every few hours, misting your plants is not effective.
I always think that I will be able to remember the names of plants in my garden, but invariably I forget. I would like to make plant labels that last all season for my vegetables, and labels that last forever for my perennial gardens. Do you have any suggestions for cheap, indestructible plant labels?
Forever is a long time. Would you be satisfied with markers that last for a relatively long time? Here are a few ideas that you can experiment with.
Plastic - milk jugs can be cut into strips with a point on one end. Use a good quality permanent marker. If you push the plastic into the soil where it will be shaded it will last longer. There are also lots of commercial plastic markers that are relatively inexpensive.
Metal - thin copper flashing can be cut into tags with tin snips. Use a ball point pen to "engrave" plant names. Punch a hole in one end and wire to the tree, shrub, or plant. Leave the wire very loose so it will not constrict or "girdle" the plant as it grows. Keep an eye on tags from year to year and replace tag or wire tie as needed.
Galvanized metal or aluminum flashing can also be used. It is, however, harder to cut and write on. Try using a grease pencil or permanent marker. Metal plant markers are also available commercially.
Rocks - rock can be engraved if you have the time and know-how or paint the names on with acrylic paint, then coat with a clear exterior grade finish.
Wood - painted or carved, wood works in the garden and looks right at home.
Plant labels may not be the only solution to keeping a record of the plants in your garden. Many gardeners keep a "garden journal" in which they record information about plant names, dates planted, yields, soil amendments, weather, watering, etc. It could include a map of your garden to keep track of what is where. Starting a garden journal is a great way to begin the gardening season.
Are there some January or February blooming perennials that I can plant?
There is nothing like taking a late winter walk through your garden and finding blooms peaking out from the snow cover. An excellent perennial choice is the Lenten Rose or the Helleborus. It is a member of the Ranunculaceae family. This is a long-living plant that will bloom for many months in the winter and spring. There are several species that will grow nicely in our zones here in the Yakima Valley. Hellebores are evergreen. Their leaves are long-stalked and grow in substantial clumps. They do not like to be moved around and take time to reestablish themselves so pick carefully a long-term planting site. They like shade or partial shade, though there are some species that will grow well in sun. Planting one under a long branch of a large tree would be a good choice.
There are many varieties of Hellebores to choose from. Here are some selections that will work in our zones here: Corsican Hellebore (H. argutifolius, H lividus, H. corsicus). This is a native of Sardinia and Corsica. It is one of the largest Hellebores. It has large racemes (elongated flower clusters) of light green color while the plant is a light gray-green or blue-green in color. It grows to a height of 3-feet and will tolerate sun. It takes a neutral soil and will take less water than other species.
The Christmas Rose, H. niger, is a smaller plant growing 1-1/2 feet. It will bloom from December through April. It's leaflets are dark green and the flowers are white to greenish white and will later fade to a purplish hue. The leaflets have few large teeth. This variety needs plenty of water.
Lenten Rose, H. orientalis, is similar in growth habit to the H. niger. It is quite easy to transplant, blooms a little later (beginning in March) but you may be surprised to see it blooming earlier than that date. It is often confused with the H. niger but this variety has many small teeth on the leaflets. Its color varies from white, greenish white, purplish or rose. It is often splashed or spotted with deep purple. It too likes lots of water.
Warning: Once you discover this beautiful plant you will quickly succumb to the desire to have more! Fortunately there are many hybrids available now, mostly of the H. orientalis. They come in so many colors now that it may be hard to decide just which one to plant. Once they are planted and you discover them blooming in your yard you will be hooked.
There is a favorite early-blooming shrub that is also a pleasant, attractive addition to any garden. It is the Daphne mezereum, or February Daphne. A member of the Thymelaeaceae family, it is deciduous and grows in Zones 1-7. This shrub is of Eurasian origin. It has an upright growth habit with stiff branches and grows up to 4-feet in height and width. It can be planted in sun or partial shade and requires little water. Over-watering will kill this shrub. In late January or early February you will discover many clusters of red-purple flowers along its stem. These blooms will continue for a few months. Red fruit will follow the flowers.
Often you discover the Daphne blooming by smell first. You may be taking a winter walk and suddenly get a whiff of the most fragrant scent, your nose will lead you to the Daphne. They are effective in group plantings, although a single specimen in a companion plant setting is attractive. Planting other perennials or woody plants around the Daphne will help hide the legs of this shrub. There is also a white variety called "Album". There are two warnings to keep in mind: 1) all parts of this plant are poisonous if ingested, and 2) keep the pruning of this shrub to a minimum as it is susceptible to die-back.
I would like to add some black flowering plants to my garden. Are there some plants which have black flowers and grow in Zone 5?
Yes, there is something exciting about a black flower. Recall the intrigue and competition that occurred in Holland over the development of the black tulip.
One example which grows in Zone 5 is Fritillaria camschatcensis. This species is found in both Asia and North America and is easy to cultivate and hardy to USDA Zone 3. Fritillaria varies in height from eight to twenty-inches and requires partial shade and a leafy, moist soil which can never dry out totally. One to six exotic black blooms appear on each stem above its light green leaves. Fritillaria camschatchensis blooms in the late spring here in the Yakima Valley.
Fraser's Thimble Farms (www.thimblefarms.com) is an on-line source of this dramatic flower. This dramatic flower actually grows from a bulb which is generally planted in the fall, but if ordered early may be planted in the spring.
I long for a beautiful yard but have a bad allergy to pollen. Is there hope for me?
There is no way we can control what the neighbors grow, or that orchard down the road, but we can control what we grow in our own yards and we can try some practices that might help.
First off are you sure it is pollen? It could also be dust mites, animal dander or even an allergy to mold or fungal spores. Consult a doctor to be sure.
Keep the weeds at bay, by hoeing, mowing, spraying or by using a heavy mulch, and do this before they get a chance to bloom as many weeds have a lot of pollen.
Trim the grass, well maybe not you, but your spouse, because just mowing might trigger a reaction. And if lawn grass seems to be the worst cause, do not plant a lot of ornamental grasses in your yard. You might even think about replacing your lawn with a substitute ground cover.
Do not use a leaf blower when cleaning up in the fall, but choose a rake instead.
Some plants are considered non-allergenic plants. It doesn't mean that there is no pollen present, but it might be a sticky type of pollen that is distributed by insects instead of the wind.
For trees, consider Catalpa Speciosa (Western Catalpa), Cercis Occidentalis (Western Redbud), P. Subhirtella Pendula (Single Weeping Cherry), or Pyrus (Ornamental Pear).
Many shrubs and perennials would be suitable for your pollen allergies, including Alcea rosea, (Hollyhock), Chaenomeles, (Flowering Quince), Dianthus caryophyllus, (Carnation), Gladiolus, Hibiscus and Iris.
I am ready for a 'green'
project for the kids. What can we do in the house?
How about a trash garden? Never heard of one? Well, just think garbage, or maybe compost. Here is how it goes. Gather some rocks, marbles or those half marbles we use for craft projects, and put them in a shallow bowl. Add some water. Then prepare a stew and save some of the refuse for your trash garden. Cut about one inch from the tops of carrots, turnips, beets, and rutabagas. Nestle them down among the rocks so that the bottom of the vegetables sit on the bottom of the bowl. Place them in a sunny window and be sure to check the level of the water daily.
In just a few days you will have some beautiful green leaves growing from your veggies. Not using soil to grow these, allows the kids to witness not only the top leaves growing, but also the roots too.
This is a project that will entertain the kids, and teach them too, but it will not produce a crop. You will have to decide just how long you will keep your trash garden. Once you have tired of it, you may recycle it in your compost.
We are using this long winter to plan a beautiful patio and want to put in a tree. How do we choose what to plant that works in a small area?
That tree needs to be well behaved. You don't want roots to lift up that patio or invade other growing spaces, and you don't want it to be a litter bug. Do not plant aspens, or poplars which send up suckers everywhere. You want as few leaves as possible, unless you don't mind raking, and you might want to eliminate messy seedpods that will litter your patio.
Remember to research how tall it will get at maturity. Sycamores get huge as well as many conifers. Ideally it should have a canopy that you can walk under and wide enough for a group of four to sit under. It would be nice if it had several seasons interest.
When doing research, consider maples which do well here and are beautiful thru the growing season and especially colorful in the fall.
The extension office has a book available for sale called "Landscape Plants for the Inland Northwest",which gives you ideas for all of the above. It is written especially for this area and also includes ground covers, perennials, and shrubs too. It will define which plants are native and give a good description of all of their growing habits. Call 574-1600 for more information.
Stained Glass Garden Art Class
Imagine beautiful garden gates, colorful windows for your fence line, hanging baubles for your trees, and decorative 3D garden art, because all of this could be yours after learning a few basic techniques from the Yakima Area Arboretum's newest class!
On Saturday, March 8th from 10 am to 3 pm (30 minute break for lunch, not provided) and Saturday, March 15th from 10 am to noon, Arboretum board member Bonnie Hughes will show you how to turn scrap stained glass into garden art. This two day class will take you through the process of designing, creating, grouting, and polishing a mosaic water lily project. Examples of other projects will also be shown.
Class size limited to 10 people. Cost: Arboretum members $35, non-members $40 and includes all materials. Contact the Yakima Area Arboretum at 248-7337 to reserve your seat.
The Yakima Area Arboretum is a 501 (c)(3) non-profit organizations, which relies upon gifts and contributions to maintain its current programs and services. All proceeds will benefit the Yakima Area Arboretum.
Last year I planted tarragon from seed so I would have it for cooking and for flavoring vinegar. I was disappointed because my plants didn't taste like tarragon. What should I do differently this year?
There are two types of tarragon. One is Russian tarragon and the other is French tarragon. Russian tarragon(Artemisia dranunculus dracunculoides) can be planted from seed, and is not the favored variety. French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) which is also called true tarragon, does not produce usable seeds; the plants must be started from divisions or cuttings. Buy rooted cuttings from your nursery specifically marked "French Tarragon" or "Culinary Tarragon". Check with local nurseries, or local herb growers that start tarragon from cutting
How do I keep my blue hydrangea from turning pink?
Hydrangeas are fascinating. Unlike most other plants, the color of their flowers can change dramatically. Color is determined primarily by cultivar and secondly by soil pH - acid soil for blue, alkaline for pink.
Hydrangeas often change color on their own when they are planted or transplanted. They are simply adjusting to their new environment. In that process, it is not unusual to see several different colors on one shrub the next year after planting.
To keep your blue blooms constant, an application of aluminum sulfate each spring and fall is necessary. Authorities recommend a solution of 1/4 ounce (1/2 Tablespoon) to 1/2 ounce (1 Tablespoon) aluminum sulfate per gallon of water. Plants should be at least two to three years old before such an application. Further, water plants well before applying and put the solution on cautiously. Too much can burn the roots.
As you work with your hydrangeas, remember: (1) White hydrangeas cannot be changed to pink or blue by the gardener. However, color may change through natural processes as the plant ages. (2) It is unusual that a gardener can influence the intensity of a color (how strong or pale the color is). The intensity develops for a number of reasons: the heredity of a particular hydrangea variety, weather conditions (hot or cold, humid or dry, sun or shade), health of the plant, etc.
As always, good soil preparation before planting is good practice. Modify your soil with two pounds of sulfur and peat moss and work towards achieving a pH between 4.5 and 5.5 to produce and/or maintain a blue hydrangea.
Conversely, to turn flowers pink to light red, the soil should be neutral to alkaline. Use ground limestone ONLY around the plant if the color is not pink. Pink colors occur between 6.5 and 7.5. At pH levels higher than 7.5, chlorotic leaves and poor growth result.
Several years ago you discussed how to grow a pineapple plant from the top of a fresh pineapple. Could you repeat that information?
It is relatively easy to grow a pineapple plant from a fresh pineapple purchased at the grocery store. Select a pineapple that has healthy, green leaves and slice off the top about an inch below leaf growth. Position the top on its side for a couple of days to allow the cut to dry. Then, set the top in an eight-inch pot filled with potting mix.
Keep the potting mix moist and place your pineapple plant in a warm spot. Keep your plant out of direct sunlight and fertilize it every 6 to 8 weeks with an acidic fertilizer used for rhododendrons.
By the time your plant is 3-months old, you may need to transplant it to a larger pot. When your pineapple plant is 9-months old, you may see new shoots coming up from the base. If this happens, you can cut off the parent plant. Or, you can separate them and start additional plants.
What to do in the March Garden
March is here at last! Bulbs are emerging, willows are showing the first haze of green, there is much chatter in bird land - and, for gardeners, the outdoors is calling.
So, out you go with your wheelbarrow and tool bucket, all gloved up for the opening garden season. After all the long dark evenings browsing avidly through stacks of seed catalogs, you are out there! With pent up cabin-fever energy and with vivid images in your mind of the bright flowers and luscious veggies you intend to grow, you are ready to take on all the tasks at once - so, where do you start? With coming back to earth, of course.
What is a gardener if not a dreamer with dirty hands and knees and a well mapped out plan of action? So, March is going to look something like this:
Raking - Yes, you did that in the fall, but lo and behold, there are more leaves that fell in late winter and blew into every nook and cranny. Rake up the leaves and while you are at it, pull back the mulch from your perennials to give the soil a chance to warm. .
Inspection - Check for winter damage on trees, shrubs and roses. Check is the key word here - you want to know what is going on, but it is important to wait until late spring when growth is well established before you take action. Then you will be able to safely prune out any damaged wood to the first viable bud.
Pruning - It is best to wait until forsythia is blooming to begin pruning your roses and fruit trees and grape vines. Note that hybrid tea and floribunda roses are pruned back to three or four main branches, while shrub roses just need a light trimming. Take a look at your shrubs; if they have become very dense and woody, they may need some of the old wood in the center pruned out to let light in.
Dormant oil spray your fruit trees - This is to smother the over-wintering eggs of fruit tree pests. Before you spray, you may want to lightly scrub the bark of your older trees with a soft wire brush to dislodge eggs that will be missed by the dormant oil spray because they are so deep and snug in the bark crevasses.
Vegetable beds - If you did not prepare them last fall, it is all right to dig your beds now, provided the soil is no longer wet. You can test for this by picking up a handful of soil and squeezing it. If it is squelchy and oozy, no digging -- if it is light and crumbly and just holds together when you squeeze, go ahead and dig. You can add a slow release fertilizer, aged manure or green manure at this time, but wait a few weeks before planting.
Early veggies - Peas can be planted when the soil temperature has reached 34-36F., however, germination takes much longer when the soil is still relatively cold. You can hasten the soil warming by covering your pea bed with black plastic mulch. Then when the soil is warmer you can sow your peas. Potatoes can be started when soil temperatures reach 39-41F, but again it is better to err a little on the warmer side.
Other veggies - By the third and fourth weeks of March it should be possible to direct seed carrots, beets and broccoli. Your warm season veggies are still snug in your greenhouse or on your windowsills in early March. You will be able to start hardening some of these off in cold frames by the end of the month. But the most warmth demanding of these (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, etc.) will have to wait until April before the hardening off process can begin.
Lawn - rake out heavy thatch. Aerate lawn if necessary. Do not mow until new growth is established, then do not mow too closely.
Weeds - tackle them as they arise, with hoeing, pulling and, where appropriate, a light weed killer, such as glyphosate.
Enjoy the excitement of spring in the garden!
I love hummingbirds. Which flowers will draw them to my yard?
Rufous, calliope and black-chinned hummingbirds are the ones most often seen in this area. These high-speed acrobats visit here from July through September, and occasionally as late as October.
In general, they prefer brightly colored, odorless, trumpet-shaped or tubular flowers. Hummers eat half their body weight daily in nectar and the tiny insects that are drawn to it. It takes a lot of energy to be a hummingbird!
There are many plants suitable for this region, which are attractive to hummers. You might try Columbine (Aquilegia formosa) a spring bloomer which often flowers again in late summer. Hummingbird's mint or Mexican hyssop (Agastache sp.) blooms from June through September, has aromatic leaves and small tubular flowers in a variety of colors. Sweet hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) is also a good choice.
Several species of Delphinium are popular with hummingbirds; these tall 3-6 foot plants typically flower in pastel shades. Coral bells (Heuchera sp.) bloom much of the summer, their 1-2 foot flower stalks rising above the low-growing foliage. Bee balm (Monarda didyma) which blooms midsummer to fall, is equally attractive to hummers, especially "Cambridge Scarlet" and "Marshall's Delight". Montbretia (Crocosmia crocosmiiflora) with its bright orange-red flowers on 3-foot stalks is a perennial favorite of hummingbirds and it will spread readily. Blanket flower (Gallardia grandiflora) is another good choice, with flowers in warm yellow and orange tones.
Hummingbirds love many of the Salvia species as well, along with the Honeysuckles (Lonicera sp.). Red and pink Monkey Flower (Mimulus cardinalis and M. lewisii) are other favorites and they grow to 2-3 feet tall. Gloriosa daisies (Rudbeckia hirta) also attract hummers to their bright yellow and brown, nectar-rich flowers. A variety of Lupines (Lupinus sp.) will draw hummingbirds to your yard too.
Although one usually thinks of flower and shrubs, several trees will attract these bright, fast-moving birds as well. Try Silk Tree (Albizia julibrissin), Madrone (Arbutus menzeisii), Flowering Crabapple (Malus sp.) or Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera). Enjoy the show!!
I bought a new garden sprayer to use this spring. Can you give me some pointers on how I can use it safely?
Your safety should be considered first. Always read the directions on the pesticide at least twice -- and follow them exactly. Do not assume that a stronger mix than given on the label is going to do a better job; in many cases the reverse will be true.
After completing your spraying, rinse your spray unit by following the directions on its container. Store both your spray unit and the pesticide container out of reach of all children and pets.
Use your spray unit only when there is no wind. Otherwise, the fine spray will drift and cause damage to other plants in yours and your neighbors' yards. Spray early in the morning or in the evening to avoid killing honeybees.
When spraying your lawn, look for information on the pesticide label that tells you how long to keep children and pets off the grass. Use the most benign spray possible. For example: a colony of aphids on a lupine can often be obliterated with only a blast of water. Several different strains of Bt are available that are effective on mosquitoes, Colorado potato beetles and the larvae of many caterpillars -- Bt is not harmful to humans.
I talked to a friend recently about planting roses this spring. I was thinking of buying potted plants, but she suggested that I should think about buying bare-root roses because they are cheaper and just as good. Is that correct?
Bare-root roses are ones that have been dug after the plants have become dormant. They are then stored in cold storage over winter. They are often the most economical way of purchasing roses and may prove to be just as good as potted roses.
One caution: If you purchase rose bushes from a retailer that doesn't specialize in plants,
be sure that they are still dormant, or are just beginning to come out of dormancy. Bare root roses that have been lying around a warehouse or store too long will have begun to deteriorate and are not worth considering.Those purchased from a reliable local nursery or mail-order nursery should be in good condition and will reward you with healthy bushes and plenty of blooms in future years. Of course, for instant gratification, healthy potted rose bushes can't be beat.
"I love spring anywhere, but if I could choose I would always greet it in a garden."----Ruth Stout
And just who was Ruth Stout? Well she was a very good writer of garden books, a contributor to her local newspaper, and was fondly called The Mulch Queen
She was born in l884 and lived to be 96 years old. She would be very popular today. It would be said of her that she was a good 'green gardener' and a steward of the earth. These things are very popular now, but not so in her day. She had to convince the people in her generation of the validity of her gardening ideas. She was truly a woman before her time.
Ruth Stouts gardening methods can be described in one word - mulch. She used mulch in thick layers over her whole garden and continued to do this for years, until the soil beneath that mulch was full of earthy, fertile, loose, moisture-conserving humus. She did not till, plow or spade the garden - just pulled the mulch back and planted her seeds or plants. As they grew she pulled the mulch back up around them and of course added more.
There are many reasons why mulching is beneficial. We know that keeping a layer of mulch on the garden helps shade the soil and holds moisture in. This is a good practice in our valley with its dry summer weather. By mulching we avoid over tilling. Tilling the soil brings up thousands of weed seeds and once they see a tiny bit of sun they begin to germinate. Ruth Stout had very little problem with weeds, and when she did spot some coming up she just threw some mulch over them. Tilling also destroys the natural layers of beneficial bacteria and microbes that form in the soil. Mulching preserves and promotes these natural processes.
Stout advocated keeping at least eight inches of mulch on the garden at all times. That's a lot of mulch! What did she use? She recommended finding materials that were plentiful and inexpensive in the area in which you live. She used spoiled hay, straw, leaves, sawdust, spent garden waste and even kitchen garbage. As Master Gardeners we might recommend that the kitchen waste go into a
covered compost container to avoid rodents. We would also remind you that fresh sawdust can use a lot of nitrogen as it breaks down, making it unavailable to your plants. It might be best to compost it first, or add a handful of urea (nitrogen) to the area in which it is used.Ruth wrote many books that taught her no-till garden methods. One of them is called "How to Have a Green Thumb, Without an Aching Back". Most of her books are out of print, but are available at used book stores. To order a VHS or DVD video of Ruth Stout's Garden write to Gardenworks, P.O. Box 71, Issaquah, Wash, 98027, or go to www.gardenworks.cc
You will learn much from her writings and may decide to adopt many of her ideas....but perhaps not all of them. She was known to do a lot of her gardening in the nude.
I don't speak Latin and I don't know anyone who speaks Latin. Why on earth do we have to use Latin names for our plants? Can't we just call a spade a spade?
Well . . . what exactly is a spade? To some people, it's a shovel with a solid, flat blade. To others, it's a flat, wide-tined pitchfork; and to still others, it's the black, spear-shaped design found on a deck of cards.
The same problem occurs when trying to discuss different plants. For example, what plant comes to mind when someone mentions a bluebell? Depending on the person's background, bluebells can refer to (among others) bellflower (Campanula species), or grape hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), or Scilla (Scilla siberica). Two of these are perennials which grow from a bulb, one may be a herbaceous perennial or an annual, depending on the species. On one of these three, all parts of the plant are poisonous. Is it important to know exactly which plant is being discussed?
Using the Latin names for plants allows gardeners, regardless of location or native language, to be sure they are talking about the same exact plant, thereby avoiding any potential miscommunication.
Fresh Garden Peas - An Early Summer Treat
Fresh garden peas are not often seen in the produce section of supermarkets, and if they do appear - and you venture to try them - you will mostly find that they cook up like little floury bullets. This is because in transport their natural sugars have turned to starch. Frozen peas are better but they taste like, well, like frozen peas. However fresh peas rushed from vine to table are a revelation to the taste buds, a foretaste of all the sweet and green delights of the growing season.
Peas can be started very early, as soon as the soil begins to warm. It is good if well rotted manure has been worked into the garden bed the previous fall, but if it has not, just loosen the soil and sow the peas about 1 inch apart on either side of a trellis.
Peas, and all leguminous plants, have the ability to work with bacteria in the soil to metabolize and fix nitrogen in the soil - but for this they need the right kind of bacteria. If you have had leguminous plants growing where you plan to grow peas, all you will have to do is pop your peas into the ground because the good bacteria are already there. If not, you may want to dip your pea seeds into an inoculant before sowing to be sure that the necessary bacteria are where you need them. When the seedlings are two-to-four inches tall fertilize lightly with a complete fertilizer to give them a good start until the nitrogen fixing process is established.
There are three varieties of peas: garden or shelling peas, snow peas and sugar peas. In each category there are both bush and pole types. Bush or pole indicates the growing habit of the plant - is it tall and rampant or does it stay low and bushy? The pole peas will need good trellising, some as high as six feet, depending on the variety. The bush peas do not need a support - but, a word to the wise, even the bush types are going to be a lot easier to pick if you provide some kind of trellis. When you buy peas, check the seed packet for the growing habit and plan accordingly.
Garden peas should be picked when the pod has filled out, but is still tender and green. They, like sweet corn, are best if rushed to the table. Garden peas need very little cooking, five minutes at the most in boiling, lightly salted water. A sprig of fresh mint added to the water enhances the flavor and a dab of butter is an added treat.
Snow peas produce thin flat pods and are picked before the peas have started to fill the pods, for it is the pods themselves that you eat. It is important to pick them before the peas start to develop, while the pods are still tender. Snow peas are good in stir fry dishes. A favorite Chinese dish is beef with snow peas.
Sugar peas were introduced in 1978 and have been growing in popularity ever since. They have fat juicy pods that stay tender and crunchy even when the peas have filled the pod. Delicious raw as part of a veggie platter, they also lend themselves well to stir fried dishes. Here is a recipe to try - enjoy!
Garlic Shrimp with Sugar Snap Peas
10 large raw shrimp
6 large cloves of garlic finely chopped
1 inch piece of fresh ginger, minced
¼ cup white wine
1 cup of sugar peas, each one sliced in half diagonally
6 green onions, sliced diagonally in 1 inch segments
1 red pepper, cut into1 inch segments
1 jalapeno, chopped (optional)
2 tablespoons of Canola oil
1 tablespoon of light soy sauce
1 teaspoon of cornstarch
½ cup of chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteSauté the garlic and ginger in 1 tablespoon of oil for 1 minute, add the shrimp and sauté until pink, add salt and pepper to taste. Add the white wine and cook on high until the wine is reduced by half. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Stir the cornstarch into the chicken stock. Heat the remaining oil on high. Add the peas, red pepper, jalapeno and green onions. Stir-fry on high for one minute. Add the shrimp, the soy sauce and the chicken stock with the cornstarch. Bring to a boil and cook just until the cornstarch thickens. Serve immediately with rice. This will serve two.
Raptor Class Scheduled for March 22nd at Arboretum
Yakima, wa. - They fill our skies with grace and beauty and now they will fill the Yakima Area Arboretum's Jewett Interpretive Center with hoots, squawks and steely eyed stares.
The Yakima Valley Audubon Society and the Raptor House Rehabilitation Center are teaming up to teach a Raptor Class on birds of prey at the Yakima Area Arboretum on Saturday, March 22nd from 9am to 12 pm, with an optional field trip in the afternoon.
South-central Washington is rich in birds of prey, with 18 diurnal (daytime) species occurring regularly and several more as rare visitors. An astonishing 15 nocturnal species of owls are also present making this area among the top parts of North America for birds of prey. A slide program will introduce the various groups: accipiters, buteos, sea eagles, Aquila eagles, and falcons, followed by the major groups of owls. The class will also cover vultures even though these are now regarded as related more to storks.
Marsha Flam with the Raptor House Rehab Center will also share a few of her live birds of prey giving attendees a close-up study of these impressive birds.
After the indoor presentation, the Audubon Society will offer an optional "extension" to the class by taking interested parties on a walk through the Arboretum looking for wild birds of prey with the chance to study these with binoculars and spotting scopes. Bring a sack lunch if you are planning to attend the "extension." Instructors are Andy Stepniewski with the Yakima Valley Audubon Society and Marsh Flam with the Raptor House Rehabilitation Center.
Cost: $10 YAA & YVAS members, $15 non-members. 9AM - 12PM. Call the Yakima Area Arboretum at 248-7337 to reserve your seat.
When is the best time to relocate my tulips and daffodils?
It may sound like a good idea to move bulbs when you can actually see them and know what they are and what color they are, but it really is not the time to do so. What you can do now is take the time to mark and label your bulbs so you know where they are located and just what they are. One lady I know paints little rocks and places them in her gardens around the bulbs. However you want to mark your bulbs, this is a good way to ensure you are moving the ones you want to move and not accidentally slicing up the ones you want to save with a misplaced shovel plunge.
When bulbs have finished blooming, their leaves are looking fairly sad, and the foliage has yellowed and can be easily pulled off, you can dig them. Tulips are ready fairly soon after blooming. Daffodils and narcissus take somewhat longer. Be patient during this time, because those deteriorating leaves are feeding the bulb right now.
Dig the bulbs, carefully rinse off remaining dirt and cut off the remaining leaves. Place them in a single layer in a flat or a box to dry out. Remember to try and keep them with their labels if it matters to you. Dust the bulbs with a fungicide and then store them in a cool, dark, dry place until this fall when you can replant them.
When you get the bulbs out this fall, they should look really nice. They are ready to plant around the first of September, which is way ahead of when they will appear in our local stores. They will also have an established, thriving root system when they go into winter. If you do not have a place to store the bulbs until fall, you can still dig them and then replant them in their new location at the same time. Just follow the directions like you would for fall planting. Remember to re-label the bulbs in their new location so you don't damage them with your garden activities through the rest of the season.
Artificial Turf May Be the Solution to Your Lawn Problems
Have you been considering giving up some of your water-thirsty lawn but are reluctant to let go of that verdant green expanse? You might want to consider an artificial turf. Synthetic lawns are nothing new; just think of all the sport stadiums. However, there are more and more uses for these products than ever before. There are turfs for kennel runs, playgrounds, parks, parking strips, resorts, day care facilities. Do you like the look of lawn mixed with stepping stones? Here is a great way to get that look without the hassle of dragging the lawn mower out or without having to get down on your knees once a month and trim back the over-grown turf.
Often these artificial turfs are made of a combination of nylon monofilaments or plastic yarns. Some are woven, others knitted. They all have a similar installation process, which is quite similar to installing a paving stone patio. The bed is prepared by excavating out a few inches of soil, smoothing it out and laying down a gravel base. The turf is then laid out over the gravel. Environmentally they are very friendly. You won't need to water, fertilize, weed or mow these lawns once they are installed. Maintenance is a breeze. You can sweep, rake, vacuum or hose off when necessary. An internet search on 'synthetic lawns' will give you a wealth of information.
Mason Bees - Springtime Pollinators - I've heard about building a Mason bee nest. Is this a good thing to do in our area? If so, how do you build one?
Orchard Mason bees (Osmia lignaria) are a beneficial insect. Long before Europeans brought the honeybee to North America, these little native bees were doing their job pollinating flowers. It's a good thing to encourage their presence in the garden.
Mason bees resemble a small horse fly with four wings and are capable of only a mosquito-type sting-and then only if strongly provoked. They typically begin pollinating flowers much earlier in the year than honeybees, becoming active at the first hint of spring.
As soon as the bees emerge, mating and nesting begin. These bees cannot excavate a nesting hole, but rather lay eggs in existing holes, either natural or manmade. They nest side by side, much like miniature apartment dwellers. Females bring pollen and nectar to the hole, making 15-20 trips before laying one egg on top of the mound, then sealing the cell with a thin mud plug. The process is repeated until the hole is filled with egg chambers, ending with a thicker mud plug at the entrance. The pollen is food for the larva as it grows. Females lay one to two eggs per day, over a lifetime of four to six weeks. The eggs mature over the summer but the adult doesn't emerge until the next spring.
When the weather warms enough to rouse the bee closest to the outside of the hole, a male breaks through the mud seal and waits for a female to emerge. They mate and begin the process all over again. Female bees deliberately lay the more valuable female eggs at the back of each hole, where they are more protected. In the Mason bee world, males are more expendable.
Making a bee nesting house is pretty simple. Start with a piece of untreated 4x4 or 4x6 about 12 inches long. Using a 5/16" bit (brad point bits leave smooth edges), drill holes on 3/4" centers. Make the holes 3.5 to 5.5 inches deep, depending on the wood. Don't drill all the way through the wood. Deeper holes promote more female eggs. The top of the house can be flat, or angled for a little pitch. Use a picture hanger at the top, or staple a short piece of wire on the back to hang.
The bee house should be mounted 4-5 feet above the ground on a post, fence or under an eave, somewhat sheltered from rain and snow. The house can also be tilted slightly down, to protect it from rain. Having a source of mud nearby facilitates nest building. Ideally the house should face east or southeast to catch the early sun. Once you locate the house, avoid moving it while eggs are present.
Leaf cutter bees may use similar nesting holes. Their nests can be distinguished by the small leaf fragments used to seal the entrance. Mason bee entrance plugs will be rough and made of mud. Both of these bees are beneficial pollinators and non-aggressive, although the leaf cutter bee may notch a few of your garden leaves to collect material for nest building.
Just hearing the word sweetpotato makes us think of sitting on the front porch in late summer, eating pie with the neighbors while smelling the musky jasmine blooming in the yard…...wait a minute! We can't grow jasmine in our backyards! We can't grow sweetpotatoes here either ---can we?
It is difficult to grow sweet potatoes here as they require a long warm growing season. They are after all a tropical plant. For many gardeners, however, this is but a welcome challenge. We know that there are lots of season-extending tricks that we can use to ensure a good crop of sweet potatoes, even if our summers are short.
Sweetpotatoes are started from plants called "slips". It is preferable to purchase them rather than growing your own for two reasons. The first is that growing slips from sweetpotatoes purchased from the grocery store may introduce diseases into your garden that you don't want. The second is that commercial varieties (such as the kind sold in the produce section) probably need a longer growing season than we have here. Ordering slips from a certified source will ensure that they are disease-free. You will also be able to select early-maturing varieties.
If you did want to try growing your own slips, the process is simple. Stick toothpicks around the middle of a sweetpotato. Put the sweetpotato into a tall glass or jar (a wide-mouthed Mason jar works well for this) so that it rests on the toothpicks. Fill the jar with water. Put it on a windowsill where it will be warm and receive light and wait. Shoots will sprout and grow beautiful leaves as well as fibrous roots (if you let this continue to grow it actually makes a handsome "houseplant"). When it's time to plant, pull the slips apart, being careful to preserve as many roots as possible. Plant them immediately as described below.
Sweetpotatoes prefer loose, well-drained soil and do better in raised beds of medium-to-good fertility. Do not over-fertilize with compost. Too much compost causes a skin condition called "scurf". If nitrogen is needed use an alternate source such as cottonseed meal. Preferred soil pH is 5.8 to 6.2.
Cover the planting area with black (or other garden type) plastic to help warm the soil. When the soil has warmed to 60 degrees, cut X's in the plastic through which to plant the slips in rows about a foot apart with two-and-a-half or three feet between rows. An added measure might be to cover the newly planted slips with a plastic milk jug with the top removed and the bottom cut out. This creates a little greenhouse for each plant. Be sure to remove these when the weather warms or you might cook your plants.
Soil should be kept moist, but not soggy; placing a soaker hose underneath the plastic mulch works well. In late summer the roots will begin to enlarge. Begin to restrict water somewhat in late August as too much water will cause the roots to crack. Leave plants in the ground as long as possible so roots can reach usable size. Use spun row-covers late in the season to protect from light frosts. Dig the roots as soon as the tops are killed by frost. Decomposing tops can impart a bad taste to the roots if left for too long.
Some varieties to look for might be Vardaman, Bush Porto Rico, Centennial, Sumor, or Georgia Jet. All of these have been developed for the home gardener.
Sweet potatoes are susceptible to some problems like stem rot, scurf, various fungus diseases and insects. Good culture is the first defense against such problems. For additional information and problem solving consult with a knowledgeable nursery person or call the Master Gardening clinic at 575-1600.
Spring is bursting forth at the Yakima Arboretum
Bundle up, and enjoy a winter walk through the Yakima Area Arboretum. You will be surprised at what you'll find!
The first bulbs of the season are finally showing peaks of yellow and purple in our drab winter landscape. But give heart, this is not the only sight to see. We have many other surprises at the Arboretum for those who are game enough for a walk in the cold winter air.
The witch-hazels, just north of the Japanese Garden area, are aglow with spider-like blooms of fresh yellows or burnt orange. Just west of the Japanese Garden a grove of Trazel Filberts are draped with masses of flowing 5" catkins. Clusters of red twig dogwood (Cornus Stolonifera) with their bright red stems can also be found throughout the Arboretum but are most dramatic in large drifts by the river. There are many other plants to see at the Arboretum, so come visit soon!
Few of us can imagine gardening without the labor of digging. It seems, after all, that this is what you should do, what everyone always does and always has done to make a garden grow. The idea of not tilling the soil seems to go against some very deeply ingrained ideas of what horticulture is all about.
Maybe these ideas are linked to ancestral memories going back to the remote reaches of time when generations of peasant forebears tilled the soil by the sweat of their brows. All in all it is hard to imagine a crop that does not come from well-cultivated land and our aching backs (whether those aches come from manual or mechanical digging). A new school of thought, however, based on extensive and intensive studies of soils and soil structures, is now suggesting that there is a way to garden that does not involve tilling, that actually improves the soil and increases yields. This is the "no-till" method.
We tend to take soils for granted. They may seem indestructible to us, but they are in many ways quite delicate and extremely complex. Soil is composed of rock dust, humus, pores and a myriad of organisms and microorganisms whose interdependent lives create the environment in which plants can grow. When we come along with our rototillers, spades and garden fo